Hospitality-grade floor protection · Ships in 1–3 business days · 90-day limited warranty
Hospitality-grade floor protection · Ships in 1–3 business days · 90-day limited warranty
You rest your elbows on the table and it tips, then knocks back down. This adjustable leveling feet guide ends that. Feet screw in and adjust so every leg sits flat. You’ll learn how to match thread size and base style to your furniture.
Adjusts by hand, no tools required · M4 to M12 plus 1/4″-20 and 5/16″-18 imperial · Stainless versions available
Every leveling foot is one base style and one way of attaching. Answer both and you’ve narrowed to the right foot.
1 Base style
If you need a normal or slim footprint
The standard base suits most furniture; the low-profile sits about 9 mm tall for a discreet look under modern pieces.
If you need extra load spread or a special function
Wide bases spread heavy loads; specialty bases add anti-slip grip, tilt self-leveling, or a slim design profile.
2 Attachment
If the leg already has a threaded hole
Match the foot’s thread size (M8, M10, etc.) to the existing thread and screw it straight in.
If the leg is a hollow metal tube
Press a threaded insert into the open tube, then screw the leveling foot into the insert. See the pairing section below.
Got both answers? You know the base and the attachment. Next, measure your thread and clearance, and for hollow tubes check how leveling feet pair with threaded inserts. Or browse the full lineup.
The three everyday screw-in feet. They share the same job, leveling and steadying furniture, and differ in one thing: how tall the base sits under the leg. Pick by the clearance you want, from a full 18 mm base down to a 6 mm ultra-low.
Use these base styles when
✓ You want the default screw-in leveling foot for furniture or equipment
✓ The leg has a threaded insert, or a hollow tube fitted with a threaded plug
✓ You need to take up small differences in floor height or steady a wobble
✓ You want a black, grey, or white base to match the leg
Core base specifications
Base: Glass-filled PA
Stem: Zinc-plated steel (stainless option in its own section below)
Thread: M6 to M12, by base size
Stem lengths: 8 to 110 mm
Colors: Black, Grey, White
The full-height base and the most versatile foot. An 18 mm base on a zinc-plated stem, in two diameters. Use it as the default unless you need a lower profile.
The 9 mm base, the most popular style for modern furniture that should sit close to the floor. Same threads and stem range as the standard, in a slimmer body.
The 6 mm base, the lowest profile we carry, for when there is almost no room under the leg. One diameter, M8 or M10.
When the standard or low-profile base is not the right fit. These bases trade the everyday size for a specific job: a wider footprint, a slim or tiny profile, a clean hidden-hardware look, or a base that tilts for angled legs.
Use a specialty base when
✓ Heavy furniture or equipment needs the load spread across a wider footprint
✓ You want the base to grip the floor instead of slide (anti-slip TPE)
✓ A modern piece calls for a slim, tiny, or clean hidden-hardware base
✓ The leg meets the floor at an angle and the base needs to tilt to sit flat
✓ You want to set height with a hex key instead of by hand
Specialty base specifications
Base: Glass-filled PA or nylon, or TPE on the anti-slip wide
Stem: Zinc-plated steel (stainless is a feature option, see the section below)
Thread: M4 to M10, by base size
Stem lengths: 8 to 50 mm
Load: 20 to 120 kg per foot, by thread
Colors: Black, Grey
The Ø 50 mm base spreads weight across the largest footprint we carry, for heavy furniture and equipment, or on softer floors where a smaller base would press in.
A Ø 40 mm base with a narrow, compact footprint for tight spaces between legs or where the foot should stay discreet.
The smallest base we carry, for light fixtures, small frames, and display pieces.
A low-profile base with a clean look and no visible adjustment hardware, for design-led furniture where the foot should disappear. Ø 30 mm.
For legs that meet the floor at an angle. The base pivots so it sits flat even when the leg is raked, so the foot makes full contact instead of resting on an edge.
A notched-stem option for screwdriver adjustment is available on standard and low-profile bases. See the complete lineup below.
The same standard, low-profile, and wide bases, built with a stainless steel stem instead of a zinc-plated one. Use them anywhere moisture, salt air, or regular washdowns would corrode a plated stem.
Use a stainless version when
✓ The furniture lives outdoors, in marine settings, or near a pool
✓ The room sees moisture, steam, or regular washdowns (kitchens, food prep, baths)
✓ Salt air or cleaning chemicals would corrode a zinc-plated stem
✓ You want a cleaner look where the stem shows
Stainless version specifications
Base: Glass-filled PA, or TPE on the anti-slip
Stem: Stainless steel
Thread: M6 to M10, by base size
Stem lengths: 18 to 40 mm
Colors: Black, Grey
The full-height base on a stainless stem. Two diameters, the same footprint as the standard base.
The 9 mm low-profile base on a stainless stem, for low-clearance furniture in wet or coastal settings.
A TPE base with a stainless stem and an integrated pad, for grip and corrosion resistance together.
Three things set every foot: the thread, the stem length, and the base. Get the thread right first and the rest follows. Sizes are in millimeters with imperial conversions on each product page.
Read the thread on the tapped hole, threaded insert, or tube-plug insert the foot screws into. It has to match exactly: M6, M8, M10, or M12. Thread also sets the load per foot, roughly M6 60 kg, M8 80 kg, M10 120 kg, M12 150 kg.
Work out how much reach and adjustment you need. Measure how far the foot has to travel from the leg to the floor, plus any unevenness to take up. Short stems (8 to 20 mm) suit level floors; long stems (up to 110 mm) handle slopes or recessed inserts.
Measure the flat footprint under the leg and the height you can give up beneath it. Bases run Ø 13 to 50 mm and add 6 mm (ultra-low) to 18 mm (standard) of height.
Indoor and dry, or wet, outdoor, or marine? A zinc-plated steel stem is the default; choose a stainless stem for damp, coastal, or washdown settings.
Finding your size: match the thread first (M8, M10, M12, and so on), then pick the stem length for your floor and the base for the footprint and look you want. Every size is on the product pages, filterable by thread, base, and stem.
If you are replacing leveling feet, the thread on the rod and the diameter of the base tell you exactly what to order. Take both readings off the old foot before you remove it.
Hollow metal tube legs need a threaded insert first. Measure the tube wall thickness, then match the insert thread to your foot.
Hollow metal tube legs have no thread to take a leveling foot. A threaded insert gives the leg one: press it into the open end, then install the foot as normal. Two steps prep the leg.
Choose a threaded insert that matches the tube profile (round, square, or rectangular), the tube size and wall thickness, and the thread you want (M6, M8, M10, or M12).
Set the insert into the open tube end and press straight down until its face sits flush with the tube end. The ribbed body grips the inside wall so the insert sits square and does not spin under the foot.
The leg now has a thread. Thread in and level the foot using the Installation steps below. Load follows the smaller of the two parts: an M8 insert with an M8 foot carries about 80 kg, M10 about 120 kg.
Here’s the standard three-step install. Adjustable leveling feet thread in by hand, adjust by hand, and lock with a finger-tight nut. The installation chapter is straightforward: no tools needed for the standard, low-profile, wide-base, specialty, or smooth-base feet. Hex-key versions add an Allen key for sub-millimeter precision; tilt and ball-joint versions auto-compensate for slope. If your feet rest on wood, the National Wood Flooring Association publishes floor-care standards worth following.
Thread the leveling foot into the pre-tapped hole or threaded insert by hand. It should turn freely. If it binds, back it out and check the thread size matches before forcing it.
Place the furniture upright on the floor. Each foot should make contact. Spin individual feet up or down by hand until the furniture sits roughly level. This is the rough pass, don’t worry about getting it perfect yet.
Place a spirit level on the furniture top. Adjust each foot independently until the bubble sits centered along both axes. Hex-key versions let you do this with an Allen key for precise sub-millimeter changes. Tilt and ball-joint feet skip this step, they auto-compensate.
Lock nut: most leveling feet hold their height by thread friction and need nothing else. If your foot came with a lock nut, run it down the stem and tighten it up against the leg once the piece is level to hold the setting.
Hollow metal tube legs: the leg needs a threaded insert first, see Pairing a Foot with a Hollow Tube Leg above. Once the insert sits flush in the tube, install the foot with the four steps here.
Removable and reusable Adjustable leveling feet are threaded fasteners. They screw in and out without damaging the furniture: To remove, loosen the locking nut and unscrew the foot by hand. The same foot can be reused in a new piece of furniture as long as the thread size matches. For replacements, match the thread, base diameter, and stem length of the old part.
Two ways to stop a leg from rocking. Both can get a piece sitting flat today, but they hold very differently once the furniture is used, and the gap shows the first time someone leans on it or slides it across the floor.
Adjustment: Each leg threads in and dials up or down by hand, so you set an exact height per leg and fine-tune with a level.
Holds the setting: The thread holds the height, and the foot moves with the furniture, so the level stays true when the piece is nudged or slid.
Floor contact: A broad base spreads the load and sits flat on the floor. Anti-slip and stainless versions handle wet or heavy-duty spots.
Reusable: Threads in and out, so you can re-level later or move the foot to another piece.
Best for: Permanent furniture, uneven floors, heavy pieces, and anywhere you want a clean, repeatable level.
Adjustment: Cardboard, plastic shims, or rubber wedges stacked under the short leg. You guess the thickness and re-stack until the rocking stops.
Holds the setting: The shim sits loose under the leg, so it can shift or slip out the first time the furniture is moved or cleaned around.
Floor contact: A hard or thin shim can mark the floor and puts the load on a small edge.
Reusable: Fixed thickness, so a new height means a new stack.
Best for: A quick temporary fix when there is no foot on hand.
A leveling foot is two parts: a molded base and a steel stem. The base material sets how it grips and wears, and the stem metal sets how it handles moisture. Here is what each one is and when to pick it.
The main base material across the range. Glass-filled nylon is stiff and hard-wearing, so the base keeps its shape under load and takes the day-to-day knocks a furniture leg lives with.
It runs the full size range, from small Ø20 bases up to the wide Ø50. Pad versions add a PA6 face on the base for an even footprint on finished floors. Pick nylon for most tables, racks, cabinets, and frames.
A denser, slicker plastic used on the smallest Ø13 mini feet. POM stays rigid at a tiny base size where nylon would feel soft, so the little foot still sits firm under a slim leg.
Pick acetal when space is tight and you want a low-profile foot that tucks away under the leg.
A soft, grippy face molded onto the base. TPE holds the floor instead of sliding on it, so the piece stays where you set it even when it gets bumped.
That is what you want under a bench, a stool, or any frame that tends to creep. We carry it on both galvanized and stainless stems.
Every adjustable foot threads on a steel stem. The default is hot-dip galvanized steel, zinc-coated to hold off rust through normal indoor life.
For damp rooms, washdown areas, or coastal air, we carry the same feet on a stainless steel (INOX) stem. Pick stainless wherever rust would be a problem.
These are the questions that come up most often about adjustable leveling feet. If yours is not here, reach out and we will help you match the right foot.
Match the thread to the tapped hole or insert in your leg. We carry M4, M6, M7, M8, M10, and M12. If you are not sure, measure the existing bolt or thread, or check the furniture spec. Thread is the first thing to get right, so start there.
Load follows the thread size: roughly 20 kg on M4, 60 kg on M6, 80 kg on M8, 120 kg on M10, and 150 kg on M12 per foot. Pick the thread to suit the weight on each leg, and remember the load spreads across all the feet.
Add a threaded insert. You press it into the open tube end and it gives the leg a metal thread the foot screws straight into. See Pairing a Foot with a Hollow Tube Leg above for the two steps.
A bigger base spreads the load and resists sinking on soft floors, while a smaller base tucks under a slim leg. The 30 mm base suits most furniture, the 50 mm wide is better for heavy pieces or soft floors, and the 13 mm mini fits tight legs.
They are base shapes and clearances, not fixed sizes. Standard, low-profile, and ultra-low change how much clearance you get, smooth gives a clean look, mini is the smallest footprint, slim is narrow, and wide is the broadest. The base chooser near the top of this guide lays them out side by side.
Choose stainless for damp rooms, washdown cleaning, or coastal air. The stainless stem holds off rust where the standard galvanized stem would start to corrode.
When the furniture has to stay where you put it on a hard floor, like a bench, stool, or light frame that tends to creep. The soft TPE face grips the floor instead of sliding on it.
Thread it in by hand, spin the base to set the rough height, then fine-tune with a level. Most feet hold their height by thread friction, and if yours has a lock nut you tighten it against the leg once level. Full steps are in the Installation section above.
Yes. It threads in and out, so you can re-level it later or move it to another piece without damaging anything.
The base spreads the leg’s load over a wider area. Pad versions add a PA6 face for an even footprint on finished floors, and the anti-slip TPE versions both grip and cushion.
The base is nylon (PA) on most feet, acetal (POM) on the 13 mm mini, with an anti-slip TPE option. The stem is hot-dip galvanized steel as standard, with a stainless steel option. See What Adjustable Leveling Feet Are Made Of above.
Yes. We supply commercial accounts, manufacturers, and fit-outs, with pricing that scales by volume. Reach out with your sizes and quantities and we will put a quote together.
Browse the full range by base style. Match the thread size to your leg, pick the base that fits the floor and the load, then filter down to the exact foot you need.
Standard, low-profile, and ultra-low feet for everyday leveling on hard or soft floors.
Wide bases that spread load, slim and mini for small legs, smooth-faced feet, and anti-slip versions.
Tilt and ball-joint feet that pivot to meet sloped or uneven floors on their own.
Stainless steel stems for outdoor, marine, food-service, and washdown areas.
Whether you are steadying one wobbly table or a full floor of cabinets and racks, the right foot is in the catalog. You have the thread, the base, and the floor sorted, so the last step is picking it.
Browse other furniture guides: Glides Guide · Slides Guide · Pads Guide · Tube Plugs Guide · Sled Base Guide
Product categories: Furniture Glides · Furniture Slides · Furniture Pads · Tube Plugs & End Caps · Leveling Feet · Sled Base Glides
Business accounts: Business Solutions for volume pricing, B2B accounts, and commercial orders.
